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FW09 Studded Topcoat
OuterwearPrada FW09 Prada studded Coat. FW09 marked one of the earlier all-over studded designs that were prominent in Miucca's collections over the next decade. A grey, bleak set with a muted mauve as the floor. Brutal corporate man attire presented the runway; Overcoat, slacks and cockroach oxfords. Occasionally garments were studded with a torrent of hardware in geometrically precise patterns. I wanted to present this piece because Vogue recently released the "lost collections" this month -- due to the 2009 financial crises Vogue had to cut their men's publication temporarily resulting in an absence of coverage of FW09 collections. Vogue was able to recover the images and show notes and published them for all to see. I recommend checking it out! 9/10 condition, almost brand new. Size 52 fits L-XL$1,820 -
AW03 “Closer” Power, Corruption & Lies Label Hoodie
OuterwearRaf Simons AW03 "Closer" Power, Corruption & Lies Vinyl Label Hoodie. In the Fall/Winter 2003 "Closer" collection, Simons took liberty in pulling from Peter Saville’s archive with Factory Records' permission. Saville, co-founder of Factory Records -- a label company with a strong-willed manifesto tied to the art world, is very deliberate and particular with the choices he makes creating the album art despite it looking pedestrian on the surface. Saville reappropriates artwork to tie to the motifs of the music, resulting to some of the most universally recognizable album covers of all time. A replica Henri Fantin-Latour’s ‘A Basket Of Roses', currently shown in London, is featured as the artwork for New Order's 1983 album "Power, Corruption & Lies" in which Saville interprets as "Flowers suggested the means by which power, corruption and lies infiltrate our lives. They’re seductive.". A palette of cryptic geometric colours are arranged on the top right of the album. These colours actually are a code, a code which cipher is located on the sleeve, and if transcribed reads "FAC. 75" which is the catalogue number (internal reference for the record label) for the album. On the actual vinyl record disc, printed on the vinyl label, is the artwork featured on the hoodie here. A typographic piece, arranged in a clock-like circular format informing the PCL album's details. Size 48, massive.$5,900 -
Virginia creeper AW02 Chenille Lettered Jumper
TopsRaf Simons Virginia Creeper Varsity Jumper. From a previous post: A crimson key light, a runway in the vastness of the ominous nowhere woods and a penchant fondness of varsity nostalgia would best describe the Virginia Creeper AW02 season. The eerie, towering figures with muted colours reflect Raf’s observation of the duality of nature. Working in production, the washes of VC are still referenced by designers to this day. Raf's processing/washing in this collection hit just right to capture the worn, run down, faded and discoloured fabric that piles up in barrels in the corners of the United States. Despite used, dirty, old clothes being discarded and considered garbage by the masses, it is rather difficult to replicate the age and natural processing that it goes through. Simons uses an acid wash technique, along with other processing techniques, to replicate this effect, accelerating the fabric to deteriorate over time. However, certain pieces from the collection received different treatment than others, like the item we have available here :). Sold at the Dover Street sample sale many years ago, this Raf Simons jumper is one of the few unique chenille pieces, each with individually different lettering, processed in a burgundy maroon (originally in a red presuming from the stitching). Reading a unique "TS" and colorway, it is very fitting for the client that bought this item, Travis Scott. 48, fits big.$3,400 -
SS02 “Saeko” Longsleeve Button Up
TopsYohji Yamamoto Pour Homme SS02 Saeko Longsleeve Button Ups. Saeko is a Japanese artist which excels at vintage 60-80s style commercials, paintings and actresses. You've probably seen one or two pieces of her work of beer ads in ramen shops. She passed away soon after her collaboration with Yohji. The vibrant vintage artwork in this sought after collection is processed through crisp sublimation even on organics which yohji has done tremendously well. Hidden snap button placket to that almost seamlessly converges the front graphic Size 2, 7/10.$2,100 -
Milk Dunks
Shoes“I always thought athletic shoes were so dreary and prosaic. If I was gonna wear them I wanted monster trucks on my feet …” -- Rick Owens Rick Owens Milk Dunks. Produced somewhere around 07-08 these dunks are the iconic and no longer produced high topo. Feature a slightly wider toebox and rounded tongue compared to other standard geos. Throughout the years dunks have been made in various materials, with this particular one in the standard calf leather. Raccagni zippers, white "swoosh", rick in heels label on back of tongue and nicely aged yellow sole. 9/10 condition. Very hard to find condition with no topy sole/protector and staples in tact.$3,000 -
Multicolor Borderknit Sweater
Tops$500Stephen Sprouse “S” 88 Multicolor Border Knit Sweater. For this season and a few seasons onward before his bankruptcy, Sprouse utilized his “xerox on xerox” designs which look were a staple in the late 80s and early 90s before it peaked as a cliche in the mid 90s. Stephen Sprouse pioneered his version of the xerox design at the Andy Warhol factory by xeroxing models/figures and creating a collage resembling the look in the advert pictured here featuring the border knit sweater. The hodgepodge presentation of subjects photographed individually in different contexts, yet grouped together by their essence through a curator, with thick borders, filtered photo degradation and accentuated sharpness as a byproduct from xeroxing the same image consecutively were ubiquitous in 90s youth media.
9/10 condition. Oversized women's M. -
Paisley Travel Bag
AccessoriesHandmade in Japan in low quantities, the The World is Yours Paisley Bag in an iconic silhouette features bespoke gold/silver hardware with robust form construction to prop up its stature. Canvas high grain paisley pattern is custom milled in Japan sporting a solid thickness that can withstand the conditions of travel. Lined in a smooth, vibrant cupro. Comes with key and lock. Choice of silver or gold coloured hardware available.$1,500 -
SS99 Secret Treasures 3D Floral Tee
TopsComme Des Garçons Homme Plus SS99 "Secret Treasures" 3D Floral Tee. CDG's reversible clothing is a signature of the label, however SS99 embraces Rei's penchant for dualities. The outdoor runway featured models walking down a flight of stairs and circling a path among the audience in what initially seems to be classic CDGHP silhouettes. As the show continues, the models gradually show the reverse side of their clothing, initially styled in conjunction with other obverse sided clothing, then later fully reverse. The collection features extravagant patterns 'hidden' away inside what seems to be conventional clothing. The tee for sale here is embellished with carefully constructed floral patterns that resemble 3D roses. 7/10 condition. Size M.$250 -
Fw09 Moc Neck Embroidered R Logo Knit
OuterwearRaf Simons FW09 Ivory Wool Knit with Embroidered R Logo. Simple and effortless cream knit with mild moc nec and classic "R" logo. 7/10 condition. Size 46 but fits loosely unlike most raf tops. Suited for S-M.$245 -
Reversible Faux Fur Vest
Outerwear$355Issey Miyake FW02 Reversible Faux Fur Vest. Miyake set out to create linear patterns this season consisting mostly of vegan materials. Rubberized buttons, high neck, reversible YKK zipper, hand pockets on both sides. Nylon border with striped faux fur on reverse.
8/10 condition, some mild abrasions. Size 2 fits a medium.
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SS05 “But Beautiful II” Reconstructed Military Pants
BottomsUndercover SS05 But Beautiful II Reconstructed Military Pants. Jun Takahashi plays homage to Jan Švankmajer, a czech surrealist. A key embellishment of this season are eyeball cuff and fly buttons from Švankmajer's "Alice" (1988). Other old world haberdashery motifs resembling early 20th century doll making from the artist's style are crudely sewn into patchwork patterns or detailed on the clothing for the collection's runway. These particular pants are a bonus to SS05 which are more so a follow up to the AW03 paper doll season consisting of similar styles of reconstruction. A slew of military garments are patched together to create wide pants. Remnants of the garments including collar, shoulder, patches, emblems and other details are proudly displayed enveloping the character of the garment instead of chopped off. 8/10 condition. Sz 3. These fits wide and loose, fits a 32-33$1,250 -
FW88 “Robin Des Bois” Blazer
OuterwearJean Paul Gaultier FW1988 "Robin Des Bois" Blazer. Gaultier, monickered "Enfant Terrible", flourished in the 80s with beautiful performative collections featuring thematic crossovers from a myriad of cultures, eras and silhouettes. FW88 homme, titled 'Robinhood', was no exception. "The man's suit meets medieval tradition". Runway was littered with middle age visual elements such as shields, knight sigils and fleur de lis embroidery. Knits had triptych graphics of mosaics and house emblems. Patterns consisted of harlequin-esque velour electric oranges and yellows, contrasted with bold moss greens fashioned in argyle. Some models sported pieper hats, resonating "Nostalgic Elegance". The blazer is riddled with embellishments. Metal centerpiece titled with the punk slogan "Too fast to live, too young to die" sewn to a velvet rhombus fabric with beading at the edges. Tassels hang for aluminum fleurs, arranged in a V shape. More hanging embellishments at the bottom of the back. All on a striped, orange velvet fabric. The front is a bold lapelled double breasted blazer. Bespoke metal chest and wrist buttons. News struck this month that Gaultier is bowing out from his own brand. I find it amazing that he kept his brand under his own name for so long as others were gobbled up by fashion conglomerates in the 90s. Many of Gaultier's works are hard to source, especially those that are his most inspirational collections and I look forward for years to come to search and document said pieces. 8/10 condition for a 30+ year old item. None of the embellishments are missing. Some beading on the black velvet is loose and has minor damage. Fading and blemishing on some areas of the velvet. Size 50.$1,775 -
FW14 “Crossed Crocodiles Growl” Embroidered Wool “Face” Jacket
OuterwearWalter Van Beirendonck FW14 "Crossed Crocodiles Growl" Embroidered Wool "Face" Jacket. FW14 is yet another Walt collection featuring tribalist motifs and strong advocacy for human rights. From the season's title, crossed crocodiles are symbols used in parts of Africa, especially with the Akan peoples, to indicate unity dating back to the 1400s. Brass or bronze were smithed into alligator charms sharing a stomach used as weights, heirlooms or novelty items. The symbol is epitomized perfectly in this translated proverb: "The crossed crocodiles have one belly but when eating they fight." Jacket is a complex melange blue weaved from fuzzy wool. Knit ribbing. The highlight of the jacket, the back graphic, features a high gauge crochet embroidery which uses shades of pink, teal and black to create shadows and definition. Yarn hangs loose from face to resemble facial hair. Detailed quilted lining featuring an ensemble of Walter logos. 8/10, some discolouration on the knit ribbing. Size 50 Best for a large or loose medium.$830 -
YYPH x Dianese AW04 Motorcycle Jacket
OuterwearYohji Yamamoto Pour Homme AW04 Runway Dianese Motorcycle Jacket. Yohji introduced a collaboration between his labels and the technical motorcycle gear specialist Dianese. The Red/White design strongly resembles the "Toga72" jacket from the Settantadue line. Key differences are the removal of the Dianese logo and zip pocket at the front, "Y O H J I" type leather patch in the center region and the "Riders" design on the back. Minor differences are changes in stitch count, refining of the piping, the concealment of minor production faults and rounder edges. Many variations of the jacket were introduced in 2004 for the Y's line, but few made it to the mainline "Pour Homme" runway. Jacket has padding on elbows and shoulders. 8/10 condition,still has maxfield retail tags. Sz 50.$1,750 -
Tyvek Cartesia Denim
BottomsHussein Chalayan Cartesia Tyvek Denim Pants. Although its unclear to me when these were made they're an obvious nod to Chalayan's commercial runway debut in AW1994. Titled "Cartesia", Hussein Chalayan's catalyst for this collection are his memories of writing to his mother after leaving Cyprus as a youngin'. Best described as "The body becoming like documents", materials for the runway collection were made from tyvek, a rip resistant light material mostly used for post mail and packages (if you're in The US its the material used in usps non flat rate packages), with embellishments resembling EU post designs along the blazer lapels and edges of skirts. A blazer from the runway was fitted for the cover of critically acclaimed album "Post" by Bjork. 5 years later Chalayan released a limited "Air Mail" dress heavily sought out by collectors which folds into a mailable envelope. In 2001 chalayan touched based on the dress" "I was interested in investigating the idea of creating a cyclical scenario, where people react to clothes and the end result. I like the idea of it being interactive… you don't know what people are going to write on it. It's just the raw material, to be themed by the recipient or the sender. The dress can go off on its own course. I like doing that. It's like picking up a seed from the air and you don't know what will happen to it. It's quite a creative way of working - creating a situation and then withdrawing.". These pants are wrapped in tyvek along the waistline and sides. The denim indigo dye rubs off on the tyvek creating an interesting aging effect. 7/10 condition. Size 30$290 -
AW03 Blistered Leather Bondage Jacket
OuterwearDolce & Gabbana AW03 Blistered Leather Bondage Jacket. Deep anthracite blistered leather ending in black knit ribbing on arms and waist. Buckled and adjustable straps wrap around the jacket and loosely flail when worn. Fits Loose. 9/10 condition. Size 48. Fits M-L$1,125 -
AW02 “Nowhere Man” Vintage Patchwork Long Sleeve
TopsNumber (N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita AW02 Patchwork Long Sleeve. Aw02's runway, titled "Nowhere Man", was set in an edwardian themed viewing room assorted with dining chairs and tables. Models slowly sauntered along the catwalk wearing knits, muddy tones, felt hats, wool cardigans revolving around the ethos of The Beatles guitarist George Harrison. This is all a bit irrelevant though as these patchwork shirts weren't featured on the runway. These shirts are all 1 of 1, constructed from a stack of shirts, pieced out and sewn together jointed by a silk braid piping. What we have here is a sz 4, rendering this item quite desirable amongst collectors as these run quite small and lanky. 7/10, mild holes, neck stretching is very common with these shirts. Size 4 fits M-L.$2,450 -
FW03 “Closer” Unknown Pleasures Melange Knit
OuterwearRaf Simon FW03 "Closer" Unknown Pleasures Melange Knit. Raf Simons in FW03 took liberty in pulling from Peter Saville's archive. Joy division, New Order and other saville motifs were plastered, knit or painted on the post-punk centered collection of 03. The iconic Unknown Pleasures album cover was also pulled for this collection, used on a leather jacket and the knit featured here. The runway colorway was in a straight black, the variation here is in a melange cream. What many may not know is that Saville reappropriated the original graphic from the very first visual representation of pulsars from a neutron printed in the Cambridge Encyclopedia of Astronomy (1977). Saville reasoned that Joy Division “very astutely spotted this image as potentially a wonderfully enigmatic symbol for a record cover.” The unusual phenomenon of the album cover's appeal is so ingrained into the fabric of society, with its endless interpretations and parodies, that it eclipses Joy Division's musical influence. Size 48. 6/10 condition. Rips and tears at seams. Pilling.$1,000 -
“SEX” 70’s Striped Mohair
OuterwearThe next installment in our continuing Seditionaries capsule with @aeonarchive is the Sex Shop mohair sweater in the iconic red and black colorway. Granted, the term iconic has been used frequently in the critique of fashion, however it’s rarely in regards to a garment that has shifted the public’s perception of style with, or without their awareness. This piece both in of itself, as well as the color-way, is the root of multiple fashion movements throughout pop culture history. In regards to the recent resurgence of interest in japanese brands that are endrenched in the punk scene like Undercover, Number (N)ine, and Fragment one cannot forget that cornerstone motifs they are remembered for were wholly taken from the mother of punk fashion, Vivienne Westwood, and her store, which at the time of this release was deemed the “Sex Shop.” Variations of this sweater were worn by the likes of Kurt Cobain, who was influenced to purchase the jumper by Courtney love at a “Breeders” show in 1992 because she wanted him to look like Sid Vicious. Although culturally this sweater has been attached to Kurt, it was Sid Vicious and John Lydon of the Sex Pistols were the first ones who to sport striped mohairs. Beginning in the mid seventies, they left lasting images of their eccentric style that continually inspire generations of designers, and consumers alike. The fit is unique to every piece, although they all follow a similar code of cropped sleeves, shortened length, and extended shoulder line. This specific fit set up the code of what would be known as classic “punk”. 8/10 condition, mildly shrunk. Fits XS$1,125 -
Early 80’s x World’s End Mickey Tee
TopsToday, we bring you three tees, two of which hail from the original mail-order undertaking in 1976, available in a variety of sizes before Seditionaries had their realization in retail stores. With the third being part of the 80’s era when Seditionaries began collaborating and stocking their items in brick and mortar shops of their previous competitor BOY (later Boy London) and their own World’s End. These items range in size, as the made-to-order t-shirts used were famously salvaged by McLaren’s team. The origins of the graphics go far back to 1967, when the satirical magazine “The Realist” published an unsigned cartoon mural by artist Wally Wood, which depicted childhood Disney icons engaged in mass acts of provocative debauchery. Vivienne was fond of this illustration. She reappropriated and to some extent mimicked the subjects on a variety of prints released throughout her involvement with the Seditionaries line. The first tee is the “Snow White & The Sir Punks” graphic. The concept and positions are nearly unchanged from the original, aside from Snow White’s vulva being exposed, the shafts are clearly drawn, and the act depicted leaves little concealed. It was through the printing process that the Seditionaries edge truly shined through, such as the seminal split-fountain treatment utilized on this specific piece which added to the visual detail. The second tee’s graphic portrays Mickey and Minnie engaging in intercourse, which contrary to the Snow White graphic was drastically changed from the Wally Wood’s mural. On the original illustration, Minnie is shown to be conducting a sexual exchange for payment for the character Goofy while Mickey and various other onlookers watch in amusement. On Vivienne’s rendition, major changes are made to Mickey’s attire for instance, which references the seminal punk rock bassist Sid Vicious of the “Sex Pistols.” The Third, made after the original mail order brochure, is of Mickey shooting up heroin. In the same vein as the Snow White graphic, this illustration goes completely unchanged from the original except for the staple Anarchy “A” replacing Mickey’s right ear. Seditionaries was Vivienne’s breakthrough project which laid out the groundwork for the visual language of the Punk fashion movement, which would later be endlessly appropriated. Aside from these “found images,” Malcolm and Vivienne would often outsource graphics from a variety of internationally acclaimed artists such as Jamie Reed – the graphic designer behind the “Sex Pistols.” With the mind of McLaren commercializing punk’s popularity, and Westwood’s penchant for iconoclasm, the duo molded iconic signifiers for the heart of the british punk movement. Staining around neck. Abrasions on hems. Should fit M-L$550 -
Late 70’s “OG” Mickey & Minnie Tee
TopsToday, we bring you three tees, two of which hail from the original mail-order undertaking in 1976, available in a variety of sizes before Seditionaries had their realization in retail stores. With the third being part of the 80’s era when Seditionaries began collaborating and stocking their items in brick and mortar shops of their previous competitor BOY (later Boy London) and their own World’s End. These items range in size, as the made-to-order t-shirts used were famously salvaged by McLaren’s team. The origins of the graphics go far back to 1967, when the satirical magazine “The Realist” published an unsigned cartoon mural by artist Wally Wood, which depicted childhood Disney icons engaged in mass acts of provocative debauchery. Vivienne was fond of this illustration. She reappropriated and to some extent mimicked the subjects on a variety of prints released throughout her involvement with the Seditionaries line. The first tee is the “Snow White & The Sir Punks” graphic. The concept and positions are nearly unchanged from the original, aside from Snow White’s vulva being exposed, the shafts are clearly drawn, and the act depicted leaves little concealed. It was through the printing process that the Seditionaries edge truly shined through, such as the seminal split-fountain treatment utilized on this specific piece which added to the visual detail. The second tee’s graphic portrays Mickey and Minnie engaging in intercourse, which contrary to the Snow White graphic was drastically changed from the Wally Wood’s mural. On the original illustration, Minnie is shown to be conducting a sexual exchange for payment for the character Goofy while Mickey and various other onlookers watch in amusement. On Vivienne’s rendition, major changes are made to Mickey’s attire for instance, which references the seminal punk rock bassist Sid Vicious of the “Sex Pistols.” The Third, made after the original mail order brochure, is of Mickey shooting up heroin. In the same vein as the Snow White graphic, this illustration goes completely unchanged from the original except for the staple Anarchy “A” replacing Mickey’s right ear. Seditionaries was Vivienne’s breakthrough project which laid out the groundwork for the visual language of the Punk fashion movement, which would later be endlessly appropriated. Aside from these “found images,” Malcolm and Vivienne would often outsource graphics from a variety of internationally acclaimed artists such as Jamie Reed – the graphic designer behind the “Sex Pistols.” With the mind of McLaren commercializing punk’s popularity, and Westwood’s penchant for iconoclasm, the duo molded iconic signifiers for the heart of the british punk movement. Holes around neck. Holes on chest area. Pinholes on underarms. Multiple blemishes and stains. Loose thread. Should fit M$650 -
Late 70’s “OG” Snow White Tee
TopsToday, we bring you three tees, two of which hail from the original mail-order undertaking in 1976, available in a variety of sizes before Seditionaries had their realization in retail stores. With the third being part of the 80’s era when Seditionaries began collaborating and stocking their items in brick and mortar shops of their previous competitor BOY (later Boy London) and their own World’s End. These items range in size, as the made-to-order t-shirts used were famously salvaged by McLaren’s team. The origins of the graphics go far back to 1967, when the satirical magazine “The Realist” published an unsigned cartoon mural by artist Wally Wood, which depicted childhood Disney icons engaged in mass acts of provocative debauchery. Vivienne was fond of this illustration. She reappropriated and to some extent mimicked the subjects on a variety of prints released throughout her involvement with the Seditionaries line. The first tee is the “Snow White & The Sir Punks” graphic. The concept and positions are nearly unchanged from the original, aside from Snow White’s vulva being exposed, the shafts are clearly drawn, and the act depicted leaves little concealed. It was through the printing process that the Seditionaries edge truly shined through, such as the seminal split-fountain treatment utilized on this specific piece which added to the visual detail. The second tee’s graphic portrays Mickey and Minnie engaging in intercourse, which contrary to the Snow White graphic was drastically changed from the Wally Wood’s mural. On the original illustration, Minnie is shown to be conducting a sexual exchange for payment for the character Goofy while Mickey and various other onlookers watch in amusement. On Vivienne’s rendition, major changes are made to Mickey’s attire for instance, which references the seminal punk rock bassist Sid Vicious of the “Sex Pistols.” The Third, made after the original mail order brochure, is of Mickey shooting up heroin. In the same vein as the Snow White graphic, this illustration goes completely unchanged from the original except for the staple Anarchy “A” replacing Mickey’s right ear. Seditionaries was Vivienne’s breakthrough project which laid out the groundwork for the visual language of the Punk fashion movement, which would later be endlessly appropriated. Aside from these “found images,” Malcolm and Vivienne would often outsource graphics from a variety of internationally acclaimed artists such as Jamie Reed – the graphic designer behind the “Sex Pistols.” With the mind of McLaren commercializing punk’s popularity, and Westwood’s penchant for iconoclasm, the duo molded iconic signifiers for the heart of the british punk movement. Holes around neck. Multiple blemishes and stains. Loose thread. Should fit M-L$635 -
FW91 “French Cancan” Muscle Zip Knit
OuterwearJean Paul Gaultier Maille FW91 "French Cancan" Muscle Body Knit. JPG body suits or tatoo tops of the 90s are a core element in the litany of revolutionary designs under the designer's belt. As "heroin chic" started to manifest in the early 90's, Gaultier took a play at the early 80's "supermodel" ultra idealized male body rendering the featured knit here with padding resembling muscle definition. Midsection of the garment emulates the male torso as the end seams wrap around to the wearer in accordance to the anatomy of a sculpted Apollo's belt. Recently suspended display at the FIT "The Body, Fashion and Physique" exhibit as of March. Pictures of the gallery shown. New, preserved condition. sz 52, Fits M-L depending on desired fit.$855
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