Undercover SS05 But Beautiful II Reconstructed Military Pants. Jun Takahashi plays homage to Jan Švankmajer, a czech surrealist. A key embellishment of this season are eyeball cuff and fly buttons from Švankmajer's "Alice" (1988). Other old world haberdashery motifs resembling early 20th century doll making from the artist's style are crudely sewn into patchwork patterns or detailed on the clothing for the collection's runway. These particular pants are a bonus to SS05 which are more so a follow up to the AW03 paper doll season consisting of similar styles of reconstruction. A slew of military garments are patched together to create wide pants. Remnants of the garments including collar, shoulder, patches, emblems and other details are proudly displayed enveloping the character of the garment instead of chopped off.
8/10 condition. Sz 3. These fits wide and loose, fits a 32-33
Hussein Chalayan Cartesia Tyvek Denim Pants. Although its unclear to me when these were made they're an obvious nod to Chalayan's commercial runway debut in AW1994. Titled "Cartesia", Hussein Chalayan's catalyst for this collection are his memories of writing to his mother after leaving Cyprus as a youngin'. Best described as "The body becoming like documents", materials for the runway collection were made from tyvek, a rip resistant light material mostly used for post mail and packages (if you're in The US its the material used in usps non flat rate packages), with embellishments resembling EU post designs along the blazer lapels and edges of skirts. A blazer from the runway was fitted for the cover of critically acclaimed album "Post" by Bjork.
5 years later Chalayan released a limited "Air Mail" dress heavily sought out by collectors which folds into a mailable envelope. In 2001 chalayan touched based on the dress" "I was interested in investigating the idea of creating a cyclical scenario, where people react to clothes and the end result. I like the idea of it being interactive… you don't know what people are going to write on it. It's just the raw material, to be themed by the recipient or the sender. The dress can go off on its own course. I like doing that. It's like picking up a seed from the air and you don't know what will happen to it. It's quite a creative way of working - creating a situation and then withdrawing.". These pants are wrapped in tyvek along the waistline and sides. The denim indigo dye rubs off on the tyvek creating an interesting aging effect.
7/10 condition. Size 30
Gucci 08-09 Skewed Iridescent Pinstripe Wool Pants. Creative director Giannini displayed a range of works playing with gradients for these seasons as seen on slacks accompanying solid colour suit jackets on the runway. Relaxed slacks are a skewed pinstripe design made with silver thread that meet in the middle over a crimson gradient.
9/10 condition. Size 48
Undercover FW03 "Paperdoll" Reconstructed Military Cargos. Paperdoll is the most revisited concept in the undercover line but nothing beats the robust and thick fabric of the original collection. Reconstructed from military garments, these paperdoll pants sport multiple pockets, cargos and excess fabric that hang for effect. Graphic and stitching embellishments on back.
8/10 condition. Sz L fits 32.
Undercover FW08 Oiled Cargos. Belted waist, massive pockets and fully waxed/oiled outer. UC branding on one pocket. Flannel inner thigh lining with zipper embellishment. These cargos are highly sought after but fit incredibly small making large sizes rather coveted.
9/10 condition. Sz 4.
"JPG" by Jean Paul Gaultier Utility Bondage Pants in black/grey. Jean Paul Gaultier may need some reintroduction as much of his work seems to be overlooked by modern men's fashion enthusiasts despite his massive contribution to men's & unisex fashion.
Gaultier has zero formal training or schooling in tailoring but apprenticed under his grandmother which led him to be Pierre Cardin's assistant in the 70's, then soon after released his solo collection in '76 captivating the voice of what French critics call the "Enfant Terrible" movement. JPG is a pioneer, along with Westwood, of high fashion appropriating youth street culture and garments on the catwalk. 1985, at the peak of Gaultier's reign, came the signature man-skirts and sailor pants. Models were typically younger or older than conventional models, sometimes riddled with tattoos or body modifications. Some models were rather androgynous which displayed JPG's unisex garments fittingly, a catalyst to the JPG by Gaultier unisex line in the 90's. Finally, in recent years and his final project outside of his own label is receiving the baton from Margiela at Hermes, heading the house from 03-10.
Buckled multi material black pants with suspended pockets. Multiple utility cargo pockets. Adjustable waist buckle and drawstring. Ankle Zips.
8/10 condition but missing the back buckle as it was a walking constraint to the wearer. Fits a W32
Junya Watanabe x Porter Mesh Lined Gortex Cargo Pants. Maximalist utilitarian masterpiece with myriad of pockets, widgets and storage compartments which pair the "Cameraman Jacket" from the same coveted and recently esteemed 04-05 collaboration with Japan's "Porter" bag company. Unlike the jacket counterpart, the cargo pants feature Gortex weather resistant and resilient fabric and Goldwin production. Inner is mesh lined and breathable. Multiple compartments and widgets including a handful of D-ring fasteners, flashlight pocket, lanyard, hidden ankle pocket, main porter labeled zip pocket and removable rear bag.
7/10 condition. Multiple bruises and blemishes. One pocket's inner has a hole in it. Size M Fits 31-32
Walter Van Beirendonck zipped pocket cargo trousers w/ displaceable velcro pockets. In the current upsurge of mens fashion, younger fashion enthusiasts may not be familiar with Van Beirendonck's legacy despite being the landscaper of Antwerp avant-garde fashion. Part of the revered “Antwerp 6”, Walter Van Bereindonck took a more graphic heavy, technically demanding and bolder approach with provocative and loud fits each themed to be striking, political and filled with vigor. It was Van Bereindonck, not Raf, that pioneered the graphic heavy, forward speaking designs dating back to the 80s. Walter Van Beirendonck is the seer of Antwerpian fashion, currently heading fashion at The Royal Academy Antwerp, with past students of the academy including Kris Van Assche, Oliver Rizzio, Willy Vanderperre, Peter de Potter and even Raf Simons himself which was under Van Beirendonck's wing as an intern. At the academy WVB was a strong proponent in advocating interdisciplinary studies/projects which resulted in the flood of artists/photographers/stylists pouring into the fashion world, ultimately leading to the flourishing amount of "collabs" we see today.
Made with vintage cargo trousers. Displaceable cargo pockets that can be fixed and styled in multiple ways. Each pocket has zips for easy in-and-out storage. Slim fit. Mainline and current WVB line.
New with tags 10/10 condition. Size 48, fits a 31-32
Undercover by Jun Takahashi "68" Distressed Denim. Extremely well coveted and hoarded by collectors. This is the "Navy Blue" Yarn edition which was exclusive and online sale from around ~2011, featuring a skinny cut with lower rises. Distressing around knees, thighs and back pocket. Fades all throughout. Frayed end hems, pockets and fly. Patti Smith "lightning bolt" mark on left knee.
9/10 condition. Rare Size 2, skinny fit.
Undercover by Jun Takahashi "68" Distressed Denim. Extremely well coveted and hoarded by collectors. This is the "Light Blue" Yarn edition which was exclusive in store from 2010 or so, featuring a straight cut instead of skinny. Distressing around knees, thighs and back pocket. Fades all throughout. Frayed end hems, pockets and fly. Patti Smith "lightning bolt" mark on left knee. Larger sizes are much harder to find as these fit rather small.
8/10 condition. Rare Size 4.
A.P.O.C by Issey Miyake "Painted" Pants. The paint details are actually not printed, sprayed or applied but rather weaved with a jacquard technique meticulously, and represents real paint extremely well. Cotton pants with denim 5 pocket construction. Has a bit of a stretch to it. Straight loose fit.
9/10 condition. Size 32