Undercover SS05 But Beautiful II Reconstructed Military Pants. Jun Takahashi plays homage to Jan Švankmajer, a czech surrealist. A key embellishment of this season are eyeball cuff and fly buttons from Švankmajer's "Alice" (1988). Other old world haberdashery motifs resembling early 20th century doll making from the artist's style are crudely sewn into patchwork patterns or detailed on the clothing for the collection's runway. These particular pants are a bonus to SS05 which are more so a follow up to the AW03 paper doll season consisting of similar styles of reconstruction. A slew of military garments are patched together to create wide pants. Remnants of the garments including collar, shoulder, patches, emblems and other details are proudly displayed enveloping the character of the garment instead of chopped off.
8/10 condition. Sz 3. These fits wide and loose, fits a 32-33
Number (N)ine AW03 "Touch Me I'm Sick" Patchwork Heart Pants. As featured a few times on HV, "Touch Me I'm Sick" is the japanese fashion designer Takahiro Miyashita's love story for all that is Kurt Kobain. Featuring upscale replicas of Kurt's sweaters, pajamas, glasses and jeans capturing the influential ethos and style of the grunge rock legend. Number (N)ine produced a selection of off runway items for this season including a low quantity production of jackets and pants featuring this intricate patchwork fabric. Each "heart" patch is individually sewn on via a zigzag stitch carefully overlapping one another creating a pleasant collage. Lastly, what we have here is a rare unaltered size 4, highly coveted as N(N) around this time ran very small making larger sizes more desirable.
Condition 9/10. Size 4 Fits a 31-32.
Hussein Chalayan Cartesia Tyvek Denim Pants. Although its unclear to me when these were made they're an obvious nod to Chalayan's commercial runway debut in AW1994. Titled "Cartesia", Hussein Chalayan's catalyst for this collection are his memories of writing to his mother after leaving Cyprus as a youngin'. Best described as "The body becoming like documents", materials for the runway collection were made from tyvek, a rip resistant light material mostly used for post mail and packages (if you're in The US its the material used in usps non flat rate packages), with embellishments resembling EU post designs along the blazer lapels and edges of skirts. A blazer from the runway was fitted for the cover of critically acclaimed album "Post" by Bjork.
5 years later Chalayan released a limited "Air Mail" dress heavily sought out by collectors which folds into a mailable envelope. In 2001 chalayan touched based on the dress" "I was interested in investigating the idea of creating a cyclical scenario, where people react to clothes and the end result. I like the idea of it being interactive… you don't know what people are going to write on it. It's just the raw material, to be themed by the recipient or the sender. The dress can go off on its own course. I like doing that. It's like picking up a seed from the air and you don't know what will happen to it. It's quite a creative way of working - creating a situation and then withdrawing.". These pants are wrapped in tyvek along the waistline and sides. The denim indigo dye rubs off on the tyvek creating an interesting aging effect.
7/10 condition. Size 30
Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus FW03 "Curve" Wool Patchwork Pants. Models from all walks of life walked down the runway for Rei Kawakubo's FW03. Classic, loose CDG silhouettes with graphic embellishments on the blazers. A key motif however is the typography used in the graphic designs. Rarely does Rei express her political beliefs, but for this season she quoted the likes of poet and playwright Henrik Ibsen: "The majority is always wrong" and more so for the women's collection, entrepreneur and fashion journalist Gene Krell: "Conformity is the language of corruption". These heavily individualistic one liners, to us, is the spiritual embodiment of Comme des Garcons. CDG let the audience peer into Rei's personal rhetoric which echoed and then later diminished starting with the political turmoil in the early 2000's.
9/10 condition. Size M fits 32, but has button tackable sinches that can accommodate down to a 30.
Jean Paul Gaultier JPG Jeans patterned jeans. Mid 90's era. Consists of patterns and designs similar to what is found on later 19th century cigarette cards.
8/10 condition, mild marks throughout. Hard to find sz 32, but best for a 31.
Gucci 08-09 Skewed Iridescent Pinstripe Wool Pants. Creative director Giannini displayed a range of works playing with gradients for these seasons as seen on slacks accompanying solid colour suit jackets on the runway. Relaxed slacks are a skewed pinstripe design made with silver thread that meet in the middle over a crimson gradient.
9/10 condition. Size 48
Kapital Kountry Okabilly Patchwork Denim. "Kountry" is Kapital's more expressive and higher priced line which features the signature patchwork motifs and designs the Japanese label is known for. Sold in smaller quantities than Kapital's conventional line, Kountry can be easily custom preordered or customized at the shop. This is the older rendition of the "Okabilly" patchwork denim which features two winter socks sewn in at the ankles, more crude patchwork at the crotch area and a wider fit.
9/10 condition. Sz 32.
Comme Des Garcons FW08 "Jamie Reid" Burgundy Corduroy Patch Pants. FW08, titled "Time for Magic", was a collaboration between CDG and Jamie Reid which borrowed works from his exhibition of the same title. Jamie Reid is well known for his ransom collages, association with the punk movement and album cover work for the sex pistols. Runway consisted of a selection of Reid's work patched crudely on kilts, button ups, and other McClaren/Vivienne-esque articles of clothing. Classic high waist fit
8/10 condition. Blemishes on corduroy. Size M fits 31-32.
Number (N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita FW05 "The High Streets" Black on Black Hybrids Cargos. In FW05 Miyashita sought out to bring life to grunge on the runway later resulting in being one of Number (N)ine's most recognized seasons. "The High Streets" consisted of cut and repurposed fabric sewn into garments which resemble 90s grunge-rock aesthetic. Models wore tight bandanas over their foreheads, with mixed reconstructed flannels throughout each look, native tassel suede bags, and the album "Bleach" by Nirvana blasting overhead the catwalk.
This is a size 5. Size 5s are incredibly scarce and are highly sought after as Number (N)ine runs rather small.
9/10 condition. Fits a 31-35
Undercover SS16 “The Greatest” ’68’ Denim. Another pair of the iconic 68 denim by Jun Takahashi’s Undercover. This, most recent, 2016 reissue features a black skinny fit, with milder details accompanied by a blue yarn embellishment on the knee. This version is also missing the Patti Smith lightning bolt that other 68s have embroidered at the left knee.
Sz ->5<-, hard to come by to say the least. Biggest size available from UC. Should fit a 32-33 with some room. 9/10 condition
Junya Watanabe x Levis 2001 All Over Print Poem Pants. First rendition of the much harder to find all over print from 2001. Reissued recently but with lighter fabric and more compact print.
8/10 wear and mild cracking on print. Size M Fits 33 waist with 33 length, unhemmed.
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal "010" 00-02 Dark Livid Painted Denim. Object painted garments are early Margiela designs which later were engrained as key motifs to Margiela's foundations. Dyed pants, shirts, and jackets today are a repetition in part of tradition to Margiela's original designs such as the artisanal pants here. Although current day painted garments are quickly pushed through a production line, artisanal pieces are hand painted on carefully curated vintage levis denim by the Margiela team thus making them very limited in quantity. Mens painted artisanal pieces throughout the early 2000's were applied with a myriad of colours and paint compositions; Some the paint chipped away as the item was worn, others were more solid but didn't reflect light, a few were merely just clear coats with little colour added.
Dark livid, or a desaturated blue grey, painted denim. Features a thick sheen added which makes the pants almost look like leather. Understated colour, however applied thick, which blocks the true colour of the jeans underneath. Paint is robust and will take longer to degrade.
8/10 condition, some distressing may be part of the original jeans. Repaired minor crotch blow out. Size M fits a roomy 31. Straight leg. Unhemmed.
Undercover FW03 "Paperdoll" Reconstructed Military Cargos. Paperdoll is the most revisited concept in the undercover line but nothing beats the robust and thick fabric of the original collection. Reconstructed from military garments, these paperdoll pants sport multiple pockets, cargos and excess fabric that hang for effect. Graphic and stitching embellishments on back.
8/10 condition. Sz L fits 32.
Undercover FW08 Oiled Cargos. Belted waist, massive pockets and fully waxed/oiled outer. UC branding on one pocket. Flannel inner thigh lining with zipper embellishment. These cargos are highly sought after but fit incredibly small making large sizes rather coveted.
9/10 condition. Sz 4.
"JPG" by Jean Paul Gaultier Utility Bondage Pants in black/grey. Jean Paul Gaultier may need some reintroduction as much of his work seems to be overlooked by modern men's fashion enthusiasts despite his massive contribution to men's & unisex fashion.
Gaultier has zero formal training or schooling in tailoring but apprenticed under his grandmother which led him to be Pierre Cardin's assistant in the 70's, then soon after released his solo collection in '76 captivating the voice of what French critics call the "Enfant Terrible" movement. JPG is a pioneer, along with Westwood, of high fashion appropriating youth street culture and garments on the catwalk. 1985, at the peak of Gaultier's reign, came the signature man-skirts and sailor pants. Models were typically younger or older than conventional models, sometimes riddled with tattoos or body modifications. Some models were rather androgynous which displayed JPG's unisex garments fittingly, a catalyst to the JPG by Gaultier unisex line in the 90's. Finally, in recent years and his final project outside of his own label is receiving the baton from Margiela at Hermes, heading the house from 03-10.
Buckled multi material black pants with suspended pockets. Multiple utility cargo pockets. Adjustable waist buckle and drawstring. Ankle Zips.
8/10 condition but missing the back buckle as it was a walking constraint to the wearer. Fits a W32
Undercover FW06 "But Beautiful' Waistbag Pants in black. Wrap around adjustable waist bag that doubles as a belt sashed around waist. Multiple utility compartments to pocket all kinds of small goods. Signature Patti Smith "lightning bolt" on knee. Skinny straight fit.
7/10 condition faded and signs of wear. Size 4 Fits a 31-32 comfortably with slim thighs.
Number (N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita Hybrid Pants. Well imitated and highly sought after 'hybrid' or 'docking' pants from FW05 "The High Streets"; A deep look at romanticized streetwear on the runway. Bandana wrapped models walked on the catwalk with reconstructed jackets and pants sporting crudely attached cargo pockets and straps. Miyashita's influence was a strong adaptation from the Japanese 80's style of "American Casual" which later transitioned to the "Shibuya Casual" movement in the early 90's. Vansons leathers, Levis 501s, Goros jewelry, Flannels and Redwings with mild grunge and americano influences were commonly worn during said era. Miyashita sought to rejuvenate the aesthetic by maximizing the grunge roots of the movement and such is clearly indicative by running the album "Bleach" by Nirvana for the runway. This iteration of the Hybrids Pants feature an adjustable waist slack top, distressed bottom sweats with two buckled large pockets and ankle zips. Upwards of 25 variations of Hybrids exist with the more detailed being harder and harder to find.
9/10 condition. Size 2-3, size tag is missing. Fits 29/30
Undercover 85 denim. One of the most sought after denim from UC's "Arts and Crafts" Collection. Probably Jun's most detail oriented denim. Features an insane amount of detailed distressing, pockets within pockets, shredded fixings, blowouts and patches. Undercover Patti Smith "lightning bolt" on knee. Black colourway. What stands out in these particular 85s is that they're brand new without tags, preserved in a collector's closet only worn to try on indoors. Pair is also not taken in or altered in any shape or form like many current day 85s.
10/10 condition. Brand new without tags. Size 3 fits 31-32
Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane FW06 Cummerbund Denim. Recently rising in popularity cummerbund denim from one of Hedi's more tuxedo centric collections; "Noir". Top belt loop portion is torn out and replaced with an identical pair of different fabric/color with this case being a soft tonal black satin with a subtle sheen. Other variations are usually a contrast denim. Simple, effortless and effective design.
8.5/10 condition. Size 31. 32" Inseam. Straight Leg.
Junya Watanabe x Porter Mesh Lined Gortex Cargo Pants. Maximalist utilitarian masterpiece with myriad of pockets, widgets and storage compartments which pair the "Cameraman Jacket" from the same coveted and recently esteemed 04-05 collaboration with Japan's "Porter" bag company. Unlike the jacket counterpart, the cargo pants feature Gortex weather resistant and resilient fabric and Goldwin production. Inner is mesh lined and breathable. Multiple compartments and widgets including a handful of D-ring fasteners, flashlight pocket, lanyard, hidden ankle pocket, main porter labeled zip pocket and removable rear bag.
7/10 condition. Multiple bruises and blemishes. One pocket's inner has a hole in it. Size M Fits 31-32
Walter Van Beirendonck zipped pocket cargo trousers w/ displaceable velcro pockets. In the current upsurge of mens fashion, younger fashion enthusiasts may not be familiar with Van Beirendonck's legacy despite being the landscaper of Antwerp avant-garde fashion. Part of the revered “Antwerp 6”, Walter Van Bereindonck took a more graphic heavy, technically demanding and bolder approach with provocative and loud fits each themed to be striking, political and filled with vigor. It was Van Bereindonck, not Raf, that pioneered the graphic heavy, forward speaking designs dating back to the 80s. Walter Van Beirendonck is the seer of Antwerpian fashion, currently heading fashion at The Royal Academy Antwerp, with past students of the academy including Kris Van Assche, Oliver Rizzio, Willy Vanderperre, Peter de Potter and even Raf Simons himself which was under Van Beirendonck's wing as an intern. At the academy WVB was a strong proponent in advocating interdisciplinary studies/projects which resulted in the flood of artists/photographers/stylists pouring into the fashion world, ultimately leading to the flourishing amount of "collabs" we see today.
Made with vintage cargo trousers. Displaceable cargo pockets that can be fixed and styled in multiple ways. Each pocket has zips for easy in-and-out storage. Slim fit. Mainline and current WVB line.
New with tags 10/10 condition. Size 48, fits a 31-32
Balenciaga SS17 Scrunch Waist Oversized Khaki Pants. SS17 featured a hidden throwback to the original Cristobal Balenciaga which played with casual but smart streetwear influenced silhouettes with structured shoulders and rearranged proportions. For Demna's SS17 collection, oversized trousers were the adhesive that put each fit together; Starting from the high tight waist, usually underneath a cropped bomber or jacket, continuing to a long body accentuating the lower half of the wearer and ending flared out over a basic derby or a dad sneaker. Demna Gvsalia toyed with the some of the most standard and familiar garments with the end result being something fresh but eerily familiar; A romanticization of the 'normcore'.
Khaki ants are lined with a smooth and silky cupro unlike the standard button fly chino version. Upper waist is a scrunch waist allowing for belt-free comfort. Extremely long inseam which stacks heavily at the bottom similar to old unhemmed suit-pants of the late 80's and early 90's.
8.5/10 condition. Size 48, fits 30-33
Greg Lauren SS17 "Special Order" Black Satin Fleece Zipper Lounge Pant. The "Army Jacket" Pant, a strong highlight of SS17 Greg Lauren, featured a jacket reconstructed over a pair of joggers with the same zip design that pulls all the way to the upper thigh. This is a special order of said design with a smooth black satin material with sleek sheen. Sides of pants are a contrast army cotton fabric. Lined with loungy material. Overall pants are aimed to have a luxurious leisure feel and look in comparison to its original counterpart.
New with tags 10/10 condition. Size 3 Fits a 31-33 best, has a drawstring waist.
Maison Margiela "010" Artisanal Reworked French Vintage Garment Military Pants w/ trompe l'oeil effect. Reconstructed pants made from multiple layers and cutouts of vintage french garments to resemble loose military trousers. Hand done by the Margiela team in Italy, these rare pants are also made to visually deceive an onlooker of the proportion of the pants at first glance by skewing its perspective using optical illusions. This is known the "trompe l'oeil" effect.
9/10 condition. Mild fading, small blemish on right knee. Sz 2, fits 32-33. Loose wide legged fit.
Rick Owens Drkshdw "Aircuts" in a gradient brown from AW06. These are ancient aircuts from the earliest days of Drkshdw. Featuring washes and colourways that are now defunct, an extra inner flap which I don't understand (nor have others) under the button fly, Raccagni zippers. Straight fit. No belt loops. Paneled construction. This is pre-"lanyard" or the extra-long-tag Drkshdw sported with many smaller details not apparent in later renditions of the Aircut. Around this period, Rick tags, including mainline tags, were horizontal instead of vertical as seen on these pants.
8/10 condition. Shows some signs of wear. Size 31, womens. Fits a 30-31, identical to mens except for slightly shorter rise.
Prada FW07 Gradient Wool Trousers. Miuccia Prada sought out to explore male vulnerabilities in the sleekest way possible for this collection featuring fuzzy tops and colourful accents mixed with a familiar clean cut slim silhouette. Said fuzzy fabrics were realized with cutting edge fabric technology which, for this particular piece, managed to embed the mildly broiled orange wool within the top end of the trousers. The execution is astonishing, it looks like no other gradient from other designers. The thin layer of textured wool looks as if its smeared on the fabric. The gradient is organic and smoothly translates to the grey base. The bottom end of the trousers feature cuffs that lock under the heel which allow the wearer to not worry about "stacking", folds or a cropped hem. Although this discards the possibility for the wearer from hemming the pants to his desired length, it allows for an ultra-precise tailored fit for a wearer that fits the exact vanilla length.
9/10 condition. Size 52. Fits 33-34.
Helmut Lang AW04 White on Stone Bondage "Mummy" Jeans, New with tags. The last opus from Helmut Lang before his departure from his label are these "Mummy" pants. What was initially discarded as outlandish is now iconic to those who reminisce about Helmut Lang's golden age. Highly sought after, especially in wearable men's sizes, these pants feature elastic wraps which revolve around the jean in multiple places including fly, seams and inner closure. These straps are rather loose and sway with the wearer and can be styled and rearranged for various looks.
New with tags. 10/10 condition. Size 30.
Number (N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita FW05 "OG" "The High Streets" Ortega Denim. This is the original High Streets pants from 2005 which feature slightly thicker denim, finer embroidery on the ortega patches and a different lining in contrast to the current reissue. The High Streets collection which realized Takahiro Miyashita's vision of "Runway Street Fashion" featured these pair of pants for a handful of looks. Ortega patches at knees and back pockets. N(N) heart patch on back waist. High Rise.
9/10 condition. Size 4, rare size, fits around a 31-32.5. 28 inseam, factory cut size.
Boris Bidjan Saberi Mainline FW09 "Back Towards" P13 Pants. One of the most revered artisan designers, BBS never ceases to amaze with the quality of craftsmanship and level of detail. The pant is of a heavy waxed material, made unconventional in terms of cut to typical pant designs. Each leg is made from one whole piece of fabric, meaning there is no outseam, which bend and taper with the figure of the wearer. Pants pay attention to anatomical fitting which fold and twist for an ultra-tailored fit. Back yoke and waist are made from different parts, with the back portion being slightly longer than the front, for again, an even more tailored fit. Raw hems at bottom, button fly. Tassels and pockets that work as ties.
8/10 condition. There's a rip at the fly which can easily be repaired. Some wear at the rear. Missing one of the cosmetic tassels which tied the upper back waist. Wash tag cut off. Size L.
Hedi Slimane era Saint Laurent D10 SS16 "Surf Sound" Knee Blow Out Selvedge Denim. Hard to find pair of pants with detailed blowouts unlike the conventional "slits" SLP likes to fix on their denim. Selvedge is rarely found at the end of Hedi's span at SLP and unheard of now making this pair rather unique. Soothing gradient wash with natural yellow and washed out indigo tones. D10 cut is equivalent to the D02 cut with a higher waist.
8.5/10 condition. Size 32.
FW04 Undercover "OG" But Beautiful 68 Denim. The most recognizable, coveted and reissued undercover garment, the "68", named after its original retail price, is a staple UC jean. Detailed distressing all over, crudely stitched red yarn, Patti Smith thunderbolt on knee, displaced pockets. This is the originally released and most detailed 68 in contrast to the reissues featuring the most perforations(holes), distressing and abrasions as the women's iteration of this piece was featured on the runway. Skinny/slim fitted unlike the reissue counterparts.
8/10 condition. The length has been altered to a 30" inseam. Size M, waist unaltered. Fits 30-31.
Helmut Lang FW03 Calf Leather Pants. Helmut Lang's stay at his own label not only was the a la mode powerhouse but established solid foundations in men's fashion that is built upon today. Lang sported these pants with simple tops just enough for the look to stay inconspicuous, but still manages to draw attention to the fit and its sleek details. Timeless straight leg silhouette in a supple black calf leather with minimal interruptions with leather paneling. Button fly.
8.5/10 condition. Mild abrasions the back area. Mild scratches. Size 52 fits a 33-34 fine.
Undercover SS12 "Open Strings" Cargos in Grey. Currently rising in popularity, these slimfit cargos feature 10 pockets with 4 unique and functional front pockets -- Cargo pocket with zipper side and flap, another cargo flap pocket but with contrast herringbone fabric, leather cargo pocket flap with contrast stitching, finally a small utility pocket with hidden snap button. On the back are two unique pockets -- A large utility cargo pocket and a contrast herringbone double snap pocket. Construction of the pants are similar to laborer, painter or worker pants with fortified thighs and paneled calves. Fabric is flecked with grey and beige tones. As these pair are in the grey colourway the details are more apparent to the eye such as the contrast fabrics and pocket details unlike the more popular black rendition which muds the details.
7.5/10 condition. Size 3 and fits 30-31.
Greg Lauren FW15 Vintage Herring Bone & Work Jacket Slim GL1 Pant. Staple slim GL1 silhouette made from a thick work jacket cutout, which mostly form the right thigh and functional reworked cargo pocket, and vintage winter herringbone wool as the main base. Metal button fly, adjustable drawstring waist, zippered ankles with jersey mesh lining. Standard zip pocket with tassel on left side. Waffle knit fabric at joints. Simple and well executed hand made reconstructed hybrid pants.
New with DSM tags. Size 1 fits an adjustable 31 waist.
Junya Watanabe x Levis 2001 Poem Jeans. Classic "YOUR SMILE MAKES ME HAPPY" poem on the back left pocket object printed in white. Lower Rise 501 Version. Junya Watanabe releases these highly coveted and endearing "poem" pieces from collections once every 5 or so years starting from the original 2001 release.
8.5/10 condition. Fades are undeveloped, very mild cracking. Size S fits 32 waist.