Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus FW03 "Curve" Wool Patchwork Pants. Models from all walks of life walked down the runway for Rei Kawakubo's FW03. Classic, loose CDG silhouettes with graphic embellishments on the blazers. A key motif however is the typography used in the graphic designs. Rarely does Rei express her political beliefs, but for this season she quoted the likes of poet and playwright Henrik Ibsen: "The majority is always wrong" and more so for the women's collection, entrepreneur and fashion journalist Gene Krell: "Conformity is the language of corruption". These heavily individualistic one liners, to us, is the spiritual embodiment of Comme des Garcons. CDG let the audience peer into Rei's personal rhetoric which echoed and then later diminished starting with the political turmoil in the early 2000's.
9/10 condition. Size M fits 32, but has button tackable sinches that can accommodate down to a 30.
Gucci 08-09 Skewed Iridescent Pinstripe Wool Pants. Creative director Giannini displayed a range of works playing with gradients for these seasons as seen on slacks accompanying solid colour suit jackets on the runway. Relaxed slacks are a skewed pinstripe design made with silver thread that meet in the middle over a crimson gradient.
9/10 condition. Size 48
Undercover FW03 "Paperdoll" Reconstructed Military Cargos. Paperdoll is the most revisited concept in the undercover line but nothing beats the robust and thick fabric of the original collection. Reconstructed from military garments, these paperdoll pants sport multiple pockets, cargos and excess fabric that hang for effect. Graphic and stitching embellishments on back.
8/10 condition. Sz L fits 32.
Undercover FW08 Oiled Cargos. Belted waist, massive pockets and fully waxed/oiled outer. UC branding on one pocket. Flannel inner thigh lining with zipper embellishment. These cargos are highly sought after but fit incredibly small making large sizes rather coveted.
9/10 condition. Sz 4.
"JPG" by Jean Paul Gaultier Utility Bondage Pants in black/grey. Jean Paul Gaultier may need some reintroduction as much of his work seems to be overlooked by modern men's fashion enthusiasts despite his massive contribution to men's & unisex fashion.
Gaultier has zero formal training or schooling in tailoring but apprenticed under his grandmother which led him to be Pierre Cardin's assistant in the 70's, then soon after released his solo collection in '76 captivating the voice of what French critics call the "Enfant Terrible" movement. JPG is a pioneer, along with Westwood, of high fashion appropriating youth street culture and garments on the catwalk. 1985, at the peak of Gaultier's reign, came the signature man-skirts and sailor pants. Models were typically younger or older than conventional models, sometimes riddled with tattoos or body modifications. Some models were rather androgynous which displayed JPG's unisex garments fittingly, a catalyst to the JPG by Gaultier unisex line in the 90's. Finally, in recent years and his final project outside of his own label is receiving the baton from Margiela at Hermes, heading the house from 03-10.
Buckled multi material black pants with suspended pockets. Multiple utility cargo pockets. Adjustable waist buckle and drawstring. Ankle Zips.
8/10 condition but missing the back buckle as it was a walking constraint to the wearer. Fits a W32
Junya Watanabe x Porter Mesh Lined Gortex Cargo Pants. Maximalist utilitarian masterpiece with myriad of pockets, widgets and storage compartments which pair the "Cameraman Jacket" from the same coveted and recently esteemed 04-05 collaboration with Japan's "Porter" bag company. Unlike the jacket counterpart, the cargo pants feature Gortex weather resistant and resilient fabric and Goldwin production. Inner is mesh lined and breathable. Multiple compartments and widgets including a handful of D-ring fasteners, flashlight pocket, lanyard, hidden ankle pocket, main porter labeled zip pocket and removable rear bag.
7/10 condition. Multiple bruises and blemishes. One pocket's inner has a hole in it. Size M Fits 31-32
Walter Van Beirendonck zipped pocket cargo trousers w/ displaceable velcro pockets. In the current upsurge of mens fashion, younger fashion enthusiasts may not be familiar with Van Beirendonck's legacy despite being the landscaper of Antwerp avant-garde fashion. Part of the revered “Antwerp 6”, Walter Van Bereindonck took a more graphic heavy, technically demanding and bolder approach with provocative and loud fits each themed to be striking, political and filled with vigor. It was Van Bereindonck, not Raf, that pioneered the graphic heavy, forward speaking designs dating back to the 80s. Walter Van Beirendonck is the seer of Antwerpian fashion, currently heading fashion at The Royal Academy Antwerp, with past students of the academy including Kris Van Assche, Oliver Rizzio, Willy Vanderperre, Peter de Potter and even Raf Simons himself which was under Van Beirendonck's wing as an intern. At the academy WVB was a strong proponent in advocating interdisciplinary studies/projects which resulted in the flood of artists/photographers/stylists pouring into the fashion world, ultimately leading to the flourishing amount of "collabs" we see today.
Made with vintage cargo trousers. Displaceable cargo pockets that can be fixed and styled in multiple ways. Each pocket has zips for easy in-and-out storage. Slim fit. Mainline and current WVB line.
New with tags 10/10 condition. Size 48, fits a 31-32
Prada FW07 Gradient Wool Trousers. Miuccia Prada sought out to explore male vulnerabilities in the sleekest way possible for this collection featuring fuzzy tops and colourful accents mixed with a familiar clean cut slim silhouette. Said fuzzy fabrics were realized with cutting edge fabric technology which, for this particular piece, managed to embed the mildly broiled orange wool within the top end of the trousers. The execution is astonishing, it looks like no other gradient from other designers. The thin layer of textured wool looks as if its smeared on the fabric. The gradient is organic and smoothly translates to the grey base. The bottom end of the trousers feature cuffs that lock under the heel which allow the wearer to not worry about "stacking", folds or a cropped hem. Although this discards the possibility for the wearer from hemming the pants to his desired length, it allows for an ultra-precise tailored fit for a wearer that fits the exact vanilla length.
9/10 condition. Size 52. Fits 33-34.
Undercover by Jun Takahashi "68" Distressed Denim. Extremely well coveted and hoarded by collectors. This is the "Navy Blue" Yarn edition which was exclusive and online sale from around ~2011, featuring a skinny cut with lower rises. Distressing around knees, thighs and back pocket. Fades all throughout. Frayed end hems, pockets and fly. Patti Smith "lightning bolt" mark on left knee.
9/10 condition. Rare Size 2, skinny fit.
Undercover by Jun Takahashi "68" Distressed Denim. Extremely well coveted and hoarded by collectors. This is the "Light Blue" Yarn edition which was exclusive in store from 2010 or so, featuring a straight cut instead of skinny. Distressing around knees, thighs and back pocket. Fades all throughout. Frayed end hems, pockets and fly. Patti Smith "lightning bolt" mark on left knee. Larger sizes are much harder to find as these fit rather small.
8/10 condition. Rare Size 4.
A.P.O.C by Issey Miyake "Painted" Pants. The paint details are actually not printed, sprayed or applied but rather weaved with a jacquard technique meticulously, and represents real paint extremely well. Cotton pants with denim 5 pocket construction. Has a bit of a stretch to it. Straight loose fit.
9/10 condition. Size 32