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FW09 Studded Topcoat
OuterwearPrada FW09 Prada studded Coat. FW09 marked one of the earlier all-over studded designs that were prominent in Miucca's collections over the next decade. A grey, bleak set with a muted mauve as the floor. Brutal corporate man attire presented the runway; Overcoat, slacks and cockroach oxfords. Occasionally garments were studded with a torrent of hardware in geometrically precise patterns. I wanted to present this piece because Vogue recently released the "lost collections" this month -- due to the 2009 financial crises Vogue had to cut their men's publication temporarily resulting in an absence of coverage of FW09 collections. Vogue was able to recover the images and show notes and published them for all to see. I recommend checking it out! 9/10 condition, almost brand new. Size 52 fits L-XL$1,820 -

AW03 “Closer” Power, Corruption & Lies Label Hoodie
OuterwearRaf Simons AW03 "Closer" Power, Corruption & Lies Vinyl Label Hoodie. In the Fall/Winter 2003 "Closer" collection, Simons took liberty in pulling from Peter Saville’s archive with Factory Records' permission. Saville, co-founder of Factory Records -- a label company with a strong-willed manifesto tied to the art world, is very deliberate and particular with the choices he makes creating the album art despite it looking pedestrian on the surface. Saville reappropriates artwork to tie to the motifs of the music, resulting to some of the most universally recognizable album covers of all time. A replica Henri Fantin-Latour’s ‘A Basket Of Roses', currently shown in London, is featured as the artwork for New Order's 1983 album "Power, Corruption & Lies" in which Saville interprets as "Flowers suggested the means by which power, corruption and lies infiltrate our lives. They’re seductive.". A palette of cryptic geometric colours are arranged on the top right of the album. These colours actually are a code, a code which cipher is located on the sleeve, and if transcribed reads "FAC. 75" which is the catalogue number (internal reference for the record label) for the album. On the actual vinyl record disc, printed on the vinyl label, is the artwork featured on the hoodie here. A typographic piece, arranged in a clock-like circular format informing the PCL album's details. Size 48, massive.$5,900 -

Fw09 Moc Neck Embroidered R Logo Knit
OuterwearRaf Simons FW09 Ivory Wool Knit with Embroidered R Logo. Simple and effortless cream knit with mild moc nec and classic "R" logo. 7/10 condition. Size 46 but fits loosely unlike most raf tops. Suited for S-M.$245 -

Reversible Faux Fur Vest
Outerwear$355Issey Miyake FW02 Reversible Faux Fur Vest. Miyake set out to create linear patterns this season consisting mostly of vegan materials. Rubberized buttons, high neck, reversible YKK zipper, hand pockets on both sides. Nylon border with striped faux fur on reverse.
8/10 condition, some mild abrasions. Size 2 fits a medium.
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FW88 “Robin Des Bois” Blazer
OuterwearJean Paul Gaultier FW1988 "Robin Des Bois" Blazer. Gaultier, monickered "Enfant Terrible", flourished in the 80s with beautiful performative collections featuring thematic crossovers from a myriad of cultures, eras and silhouettes. FW88 homme, titled 'Robinhood', was no exception. "The man's suit meets medieval tradition". Runway was littered with middle age visual elements such as shields, knight sigils and fleur de lis embroidery. Knits had triptych graphics of mosaics and house emblems. Patterns consisted of harlequin-esque velour electric oranges and yellows, contrasted with bold moss greens fashioned in argyle. Some models sported pieper hats, resonating "Nostalgic Elegance". The blazer is riddled with embellishments. Metal centerpiece titled with the punk slogan "Too fast to live, too young to die" sewn to a velvet rhombus fabric with beading at the edges. Tassels hang for aluminum fleurs, arranged in a V shape. More hanging embellishments at the bottom of the back. All on a striped, orange velvet fabric. The front is a bold lapelled double breasted blazer. Bespoke metal chest and wrist buttons. News struck this month that Gaultier is bowing out from his own brand. I find it amazing that he kept his brand under his own name for so long as others were gobbled up by fashion conglomerates in the 90s. Many of Gaultier's works are hard to source, especially those that are his most inspirational collections and I look forward for years to come to search and document said pieces. 8/10 condition for a 30+ year old item. None of the embellishments are missing. Some beading on the black velvet is loose and has minor damage. Fading and blemishing on some areas of the velvet. Size 50.$1,775 -

FW14 “Crossed Crocodiles Growl” Embroidered Wool “Face” Jacket
OuterwearWalter Van Beirendonck FW14 "Crossed Crocodiles Growl" Embroidered Wool "Face" Jacket. FW14 is yet another Walt collection featuring tribalist motifs and strong advocacy for human rights. From the season's title, crossed crocodiles are symbols used in parts of Africa, especially with the Akan peoples, to indicate unity dating back to the 1400s. Brass or bronze were smithed into alligator charms sharing a stomach used as weights, heirlooms or novelty items. The symbol is epitomized perfectly in this translated proverb: "The crossed crocodiles have one belly but when eating they fight." Jacket is a complex melange blue weaved from fuzzy wool. Knit ribbing. The highlight of the jacket, the back graphic, features a high gauge crochet embroidery which uses shades of pink, teal and black to create shadows and definition. Yarn hangs loose from face to resemble facial hair. Detailed quilted lining featuring an ensemble of Walter logos. 8/10, some discolouration on the knit ribbing. Size 50 Best for a large or loose medium.$830 -

YYPH x Dianese AW04 Motorcycle Jacket
OuterwearYohji Yamamoto Pour Homme AW04 Runway Dianese Motorcycle Jacket. Yohji introduced a collaboration between his labels and the technical motorcycle gear specialist Dianese. The Red/White design strongly resembles the "Toga72" jacket from the Settantadue line. Key differences are the removal of the Dianese logo and zip pocket at the front, "Y O H J I" type leather patch in the center region and the "Riders" design on the back. Minor differences are changes in stitch count, refining of the piping, the concealment of minor production faults and rounder edges. Many variations of the jacket were introduced in 2004 for the Y's line, but few made it to the mainline "Pour Homme" runway. Jacket has padding on elbows and shoulders. 8/10 condition,still has maxfield retail tags. Sz 50.$1,750 -

AW03 Blistered Leather Bondage Jacket
OuterwearDolce & Gabbana AW03 Blistered Leather Bondage Jacket. Deep anthracite blistered leather ending in black knit ribbing on arms and waist. Buckled and adjustable straps wrap around the jacket and loosely flail when worn. Fits Loose. 9/10 condition. Size 48. Fits M-L$1,125 -

FW03 “Closer” Unknown Pleasures Melange Knit
OuterwearRaf Simon FW03 "Closer" Unknown Pleasures Melange Knit. Raf Simons in FW03 took liberty in pulling from Peter Saville's archive. Joy division, New Order and other saville motifs were plastered, knit or painted on the post-punk centered collection of 03. The iconic Unknown Pleasures album cover was also pulled for this collection, used on a leather jacket and the knit featured here. The runway colorway was in a straight black, the variation here is in a melange cream. What many may not know is that Saville reappropriated the original graphic from the very first visual representation of pulsars from a neutron printed in the Cambridge Encyclopedia of Astronomy (1977). Saville reasoned that Joy Division “very astutely spotted this image as potentially a wonderfully enigmatic symbol for a record cover.” The unusual phenomenon of the album cover's appeal is so ingrained into the fabric of society, with its endless interpretations and parodies, that it eclipses Joy Division's musical influence. Size 48. 6/10 condition. Rips and tears at seams. Pilling.$1,000 -

“SEX” 70’s Striped Mohair
OuterwearThe next installment in our continuing Seditionaries capsule with @aeonarchive is the Sex Shop mohair sweater in the iconic red and black colorway. Granted, the term iconic has been used frequently in the critique of fashion, however it’s rarely in regards to a garment that has shifted the public’s perception of style with, or without their awareness. This piece both in of itself, as well as the color-way, is the root of multiple fashion movements throughout pop culture history. In regards to the recent resurgence of interest in japanese brands that are endrenched in the punk scene like Undercover, Number (N)ine, and Fragment one cannot forget that cornerstone motifs they are remembered for were wholly taken from the mother of punk fashion, Vivienne Westwood, and her store, which at the time of this release was deemed the “Sex Shop.” Variations of this sweater were worn by the likes of Kurt Cobain, who was influenced to purchase the jumper by Courtney love at a “Breeders” show in 1992 because she wanted him to look like Sid Vicious. Although culturally this sweater has been attached to Kurt, it was Sid Vicious and John Lydon of the Sex Pistols were the first ones who to sport striped mohairs. Beginning in the mid seventies, they left lasting images of their eccentric style that continually inspire generations of designers, and consumers alike. The fit is unique to every piece, although they all follow a similar code of cropped sleeves, shortened length, and extended shoulder line. This specific fit set up the code of what would be known as classic “punk”. 8/10 condition, mildly shrunk. Fits XS$1,125 -

FW91 “French Cancan” Muscle Zip Knit
OuterwearJean Paul Gaultier Maille FW91 "French Cancan" Muscle Body Knit. JPG body suits or tatoo tops of the 90s are a core element in the litany of revolutionary designs under the designer's belt. As "heroin chic" started to manifest in the early 90's, Gaultier took a play at the early 80's "supermodel" ultra idealized male body rendering the featured knit here with padding resembling muscle definition. Midsection of the garment emulates the male torso as the end seams wrap around to the wearer in accordance to the anatomy of a sculpted Apollo's belt. Recently suspended display at the FIT "The Body, Fashion and Physique" exhibit as of March. Pictures of the gallery shown. New, preserved condition. sz 52, Fits M-L depending on desired fit.$855 -

FW01 Riot Riot Riot! Patched Ma-1 Camo Bomber
OuterwearRaf Simons FW01 Riot Riot Riot! Patched MA-1 Camo Bomber. The nearly tiring reminder, but well merited and critically acclaimed Raf Simons collection that represents the cornerstone of men's "archive". The conversation piece that served as a catalyst to mainstream interest of Raf Simons and past mens fashion as a whole; The Riot Riot Riot! patched bomber still stands today as one of the most coveted articles of men's clothing. Simply a Fostex bomber, purchasable at many army surplus stores around the world, patched on with images of Bowie, Richy Edwards, a Bauhaus Poster, and an article for the missing Edwards from the Manic Street Preachers. After sporting sleek, monotone capes, cloaks and academic looks in the 90's, Raf took a hiatus and returned with the iconoclastic Riot collection. Featuring layered compositions of jackets over coats and massive pants with scarves wrapped around the models' faces which look was inspired from east european youth layering for cold winters. In a time where sleek geometric minimalism or gaudy buckle belts with distressed jeans were a common occurrence on the runway, Raf Simons introduced a baggier, menacing look compelled by his music/film interests plastered on clothing in a postmodern mishmash which many are still inspired by 20 years later today. 9/10 condition. OS$20,000 -

AW02 “Virginia Creeper” Distressed Leather Coat
Outerwear$2,555Raf Simons AW02-03 Virginia Creeper Distressed Heavy Leather Coat. A crimson key light, a runway in the vastness of the ominous woods and a penchant fondness of varsity nostalgia would best describe the Virginia Creeper AW02 season. The eerie, towering figures with muted colours reflect Raf’s observation of the duality of nature. This collection is more so immersed not by the graphics but with pieces like the coat shown here. This heavy leather coat and similar variations were on the runway over multiple layers of outerwear, puffers, plastic raincoats and baggy trousers to emphasize the cast of the menacing and slouched cut out of the wearer. Heavily distressed leather throughout, with patched embellishments and reinforcements. Lined in cupro. Elastic waistband on back to cinch the fabric to the lower back side. Zip down middle with oversized placket. Made in limited quantities in comparison to the cotton variation.
9/10 condition. Unfortunately missing the belt but can be styled without it just fine.
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SS98 “A Fetish for Beauty” Light Wizzkid Jacket
OuterwearW< SS98 "A Fetish for Beauty" Wizzkid Jacket. W<, short for "Wild and Lethal Trash", was one of Walter Van Beirendoinck's now defunct offsprings alongside Aestheticterrorists. Beirendonck never compromised his creative control throughout his legacy paving way for unadulterated displays of his work that are celebrated in museums around the wold today. SS98 was no exception. The show, or better described as a choreographed performance, involved over 100 people in a 4 part extravaganza lasting nearly 30 minutes. Taken place on a red square center stage in Paris, the first act consisted of 30 "wizzkids" with cowboy hats doing a honkytonk style choreographed dance. The Second, 30 "White Trash" performers on stilts with drapey white costumed enveloped the stage. The third, 30 "Black Beauties", with dark, eerie and sinister Manson looks took the stage. The fourth, 40 ballroom dancer from "outer space", with masks, dresses and distantly victorian poise with swaravoski embellishments finalized the show. The stage dims, times passes, lights pop back up and a flood of cast, crew and Walter himself spend the rest of the show in an improvised rave. Muave coloured jacket with embellishments on sleeves. "Wizzkid" written across the front chest 7/10 condition. Faded, some sun bleaching around collar.$245 -

FW09 “A Closed Feeling” Mouton Shearling Jacket
OuterwearFW09 "A Closed Feeling" Mouton Shearling Jacket. Real fully lined trimmed luxurious shearling sheepskin, silk velvet, lace embellishments. Number (N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita FW09 Silk Jacquard Blazer in Cream/Blue. FW09 was the magnus opus for Takahiro Miyashita as he exited N(N) -- what his fans thought was his permanent departure from his creative aspirations. The collection featured 18th and 19th century influences with intricate tailoring and masterful craftsmanship. One of the more costly collections (with jackets averaging $3000), Miyashita's FW09 creations featured layered pattern silk for lining, embossed floral designs and velvet appliques. 9/10 condition. Sz 4 Tall M-L$1,500 -

FW01 Artisanal Reconstructed Military Cargo Vest
OuterwearMaison Martin Margiela FW01 Artisanal Reconstructed Military Vest. Margiela's eponymous line, "010" and "0", are artisanal garments which paved a basis for the foundations of Margiela's core designs. Reproductions and reinterpretations have been made over the years, even after Margiela's departure from his own label, but the original artisanal garments are hand sewn in low quantities by the Margiela team, at the atelier, with vintage or hand selected fabrics. Due to the nature of the artisanal line's creative process, each "010" or "0" item has mild variations. The artisanal men's "010" line has been in a long hiatus until very recently reintroduced by now creative director Galliano. Vest was made from military cargo pants, jackets and utility pockets rearranged and placed on top of each other and protruding from the sides. Pockets are lined in multiple materials with absent or replaced hardware. Each reconstructed pocket carries details which resemble the very nature of where the fabric originated. 8/10 condition. Sz M.$1,000 -

Sample Knit “C” Crewneck
OuterwearCalvin Klein 205w39nyc by Raf Simons Sample F&F Knit Crewneck. Sample knit crewneck never made it to production and was handed out to models that walked for Calvin Klein in 2017. Collegiate "C" motif was applied throughout the designs of following 17/18 collections. Cream heavy knit wool. 9/10 condition. No size tag.$400
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