-
SS05 “But Beautiful II” Reconstructed Military Pants
Undercover SS05 But Beautiful II Reconstructed Military Pants. Jun Takahashi plays homage to Jan Švankmajer, a czech surrealist. A key embellishment of this season are eyeball cuff and fly buttons from Švankmajer's "Alice" (1988). Other old world haberdashery motifs resembling early 20th century doll making from the artist's style are crudely sewn into patchwork patterns or detailed on the clothing for the collection's runway. These particular pants are a bonus to SS05 which are more so a follow up to the AW03 paper doll season consisting of similar styles of reconstruction. A slew of military garments are patched together to create wide pants. Remnants of the garments including collar, shoulder, patches, emblems and other details are proudly displayed enveloping the character of the garment instead of chopped off. 8/10 condition. Sz 3. These fits wide and loose, fits a 32-33$1,250 -
Protected: AW03 Patchwork Heart Pants
Number (N)ine AW03 "Touch Me I'm Sick" Patchwork Heart Pants. As featured a few times on HV, "Touch Me I'm Sick" is the japanese fashion designer Takahiro Miyashita's love story for all that is Kurt Kobain. Featuring upscale replicas of Kurt's sweaters, pajamas, glasses and jeans capturing the influential ethos and style of the grunge rock legend. Number (N)ine produced a selection of off runway items for this season including a low quantity production of jackets and pants featuring this intricate patchwork fabric. Each "heart" patch is individually sewn on via a zigzag stitch carefully overlapping one another creating a pleasant collage. Lastly, what we have here is a rare unaltered size 4, highly coveted as N(N) around this time ran very small making larger sizes more desirable. Condition 9/10. Size 4 Fits a 31-32.$1,655$1,385 -
Tyvek Cartesia Denim
Hussein Chalayan Cartesia Tyvek Denim Pants. Although its unclear to me when these were made they're an obvious nod to Chalayan's commercial runway debut in AW1994. Titled "Cartesia", Hussein Chalayan's catalyst for this collection are his memories of writing to his mother after leaving Cyprus as a youngin'. Best described as "The body becoming like documents", materials for the runway collection were made from tyvek, a rip resistant light material mostly used for post mail and packages (if you're in The US its the material used in usps non flat rate packages), with embellishments resembling EU post designs along the blazer lapels and edges of skirts. A blazer from the runway was fitted for the cover of critically acclaimed album "Post" by Bjork. 5 years later Chalayan released a limited "Air Mail" dress heavily sought out by collectors which folds into a mailable envelope. In 2001 chalayan touched based on the dress" "I was interested in investigating the idea of creating a cyclical scenario, where people react to clothes and the end result. I like the idea of it being interactive… you don't know what people are going to write on it. It's just the raw material, to be themed by the recipient or the sender. The dress can go off on its own course. I like doing that. It's like picking up a seed from the air and you don't know what will happen to it. It's quite a creative way of working - creating a situation and then withdrawing.". These pants are wrapped in tyvek along the waistline and sides. The denim indigo dye rubs off on the tyvek creating an interesting aging effect. 7/10 condition. Size 30$290 -
FW03 “Curve” Wool Patchwork Pants
Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus FW03 "Curve" Wool Patchwork Pants. Models from all walks of life walked down the runway for Rei Kawakubo's FW03. Classic, loose CDG silhouettes with graphic embellishments on the blazers. A key motif however is the typography used in the graphic designs. Rarely does Rei express her political beliefs, but for this season she quoted the likes of poet and playwright Henrik Ibsen: "The majority is always wrong" and more so for the women's collection, entrepreneur and fashion journalist Gene Krell: "Conformity is the language of corruption". These heavily individualistic one liners, to us, is the spiritual embodiment of Comme des Garcons. CDG let the audience peer into Rei's personal rhetoric which echoed and then later diminished starting with the political turmoil in the early 2000's. 9/10 condition. Size M fits 32, but has button tackable sinches that can accommodate down to a 30.$395 -
JPG Jeans Patterned Cotton Pants
Jean Paul Gaultier JPG Jeans patterned jeans. Mid 90's era. Consists of patterns and designs similar to what is found on later 19th century cigarette cards. 8/10 condition, mild marks throughout. Hard to find sz 32, but best for a 31.$300 -
Skewed Iridescent Pinstripe Wool Pants
Gucci 08-09 Skewed Iridescent Pinstripe Wool Pants. Creative director Giannini displayed a range of works playing with gradients for these seasons as seen on slacks accompanying solid colour suit jackets on the runway. Relaxed slacks are a skewed pinstripe design made with silver thread that meet in the middle over a crimson gradient. 9/10 condition. Size 48$500 -
Kountry Okabilly Patchwork Denim
Kapital Kountry Okabilly Patchwork Denim. "Kountry" is Kapital's more expressive and higher priced line which features the signature patchwork motifs and designs the Japanese label is known for. Sold in smaller quantities than Kapital's conventional line, Kountry can be easily custom preordered or customized at the shop. This is the older rendition of the "Okabilly" patchwork denim which features two winter socks sewn in at the ankles, more crude patchwork at the crotch area and a wider fit. 9/10 condition. Sz 32.$615 -
FW08 Jamie Reid “Time For Magic” Corduroy Pants
Comme Des Garcons FW08 "Jamie Reid" Burgundy Corduroy Patch Pants. FW08, titled "Time for Magic", was a collaboration between CDG and Jamie Reid which borrowed works from his exhibition of the same title. Jamie Reid is well known for his ransom collages, association with the punk movement and album cover work for the sex pistols. Runway consisted of a selection of Reid's work patched crudely on kilts, button ups, and other McClaren/Vivienne-esque articles of clothing. Classic high waist fit 8/10 condition. Blemishes on corduroy. Size M fits 31-32.$240 -
FW05 “The High Streets” Hybrid Cargos
Number (N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita FW05 "The High Streets" Black on Black Hybrids Cargos. In FW05 Miyashita sought out to bring life to grunge on the runway later resulting in being one of Number (N)ine's most recognized seasons. "The High Streets" consisted of cut and repurposed fabric sewn into garments which resemble 90s grunge-rock aesthetic. Models wore tight bandanas over their foreheads, with mixed reconstructed flannels throughout each look, native tassel suede bags, and the album "Bleach" by Nirvana blasting overhead the catwalk. This is a size 5. Size 5s are incredibly scarce and are highly sought after as Number (N)ine runs rather small. 9/10 condition. Fits a 31-35$2,800 -
SS16 “The Greatest” 68s
Undercover SS16 “The Greatest” ’68’ Denim. Another pair of the iconic 68 denim by Jun Takahashi’s Undercover. This, most recent, 2016 reissue features a black skinny fit, with milder details accompanied by a blue yarn embellishment on the knee. This version is also missing the Patti Smith lightning bolt that other 68s have embroidered at the left knee.
Sz ->5<-, hard to come by to say the least. Biggest size available from UC. Should fit a 32-33 with some room. 9/10 condition
-
01 All Over Poem Denim Pants
Junya Watanabe x Levis 2001 All Over Print Poem Pants. First rendition of the much harder to find all over print from 2001. Reissued recently but with lighter fabric and more compact print. 8/10 wear and mild cracking on print. Size M Fits 33 waist with 33 length, unhemmed.$400 -
Artisanal 00-02 Dark Livid Painted Denim
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal "010" 00-02 Dark Livid Painted Denim. Object painted garments are early Margiela designs which later were engrained as key motifs to Margiela's foundations. Dyed pants, shirts, and jackets today are a repetition in part of tradition to Margiela's original designs such as the artisanal pants here. Although current day painted garments are quickly pushed through a production line, artisanal pieces are hand painted on carefully curated vintage levis denim by the Margiela team thus making them very limited in quantity. Mens painted artisanal pieces throughout the early 2000's were applied with a myriad of colours and paint compositions; Some the paint chipped away as the item was worn, others were more solid but didn't reflect light, a few were merely just clear coats with little colour added. Dark livid, or a desaturated blue grey, painted denim. Features a thick sheen added which makes the pants almost look like leather. Understated colour, however applied thick, which blocks the true colour of the jeans underneath. Paint is robust and will take longer to degrade. 8/10 condition, some distressing may be part of the original jeans. Repaired minor crotch blow out. Size M fits a roomy 31. Straight leg. Unhemmed.$600 -
FW03 “Paper Doll” Reconstructed Military Cargo Pants
Undercover FW03 "Paperdoll" Reconstructed Military Cargos. Paperdoll is the most revisited concept in the undercover line but nothing beats the robust and thick fabric of the original collection. Reconstructed from military garments, these paperdoll pants sport multiple pockets, cargos and excess fabric that hang for effect. Graphic and stitching embellishments on back. 8/10 condition. Sz L fits 32.$1 -
FW08 Oiled Cargos
Undercover FW08 Oiled Cargos. Belted waist, massive pockets and fully waxed/oiled outer. UC branding on one pocket. Flannel inner thigh lining with zipper embellishment. These cargos are highly sought after but fit incredibly small making large sizes rather coveted. 9/10 condition. Sz 4.$1 -
“JPG” Utility Bondage Pants
"JPG" by Jean Paul Gaultier Utility Bondage Pants in black/grey. Jean Paul Gaultier may need some reintroduction as much of his work seems to be overlooked by modern men's fashion enthusiasts despite his massive contribution to men's & unisex fashion. Gaultier has zero formal training or schooling in tailoring but apprenticed under his grandmother which led him to be Pierre Cardin's assistant in the 70's, then soon after released his solo collection in '76 captivating the voice of what French critics call the "Enfant Terrible" movement. JPG is a pioneer, along with Westwood, of high fashion appropriating youth street culture and garments on the catwalk. 1985, at the peak of Gaultier's reign, came the signature man-skirts and sailor pants. Models were typically younger or older than conventional models, sometimes riddled with tattoos or body modifications. Some models were rather androgynous which displayed JPG's unisex garments fittingly, a catalyst to the JPG by Gaultier unisex line in the 90's. Finally, in recent years and his final project outside of his own label is receiving the baton from Margiela at Hermes, heading the house from 03-10. Buckled multi material black pants with suspended pockets. Multiple utility cargo pockets. Adjustable waist buckle and drawstring. Ankle Zips. 8/10 condition but missing the back buckle as it was a walking constraint to the wearer. Fits a W32$500